Travelling in Tohoku Part 2: Dewa Sanzan, Yamagata

I had an amazing summer holiday with my parents, and although not everything went according to plan, I still have a lot of places to recommend for future explorations!

This three part series will definitely be more of a photoblog than anything else, but I’ll try to add stories or commentary where needed. For Part II’s mood music, I recommend “Walking With Happiness” by The Best Pessimist. So without further ado, on to our second destination:



For Part II of our Tohoku Adventure, I had planned for us to hike the Three Mountains of Dewa (more commonly known as Dewa Sanzan). In order, they are: Mt. Haguro (the mountain of Birth), Mt. Gassan (the mountain of Death), and Mt. Yudono (the mountain of Rebirth). Haven’t you ever heard of them? Admittedly even my coworkers gave me weird looks when I announced this part of our trip — they all wanted to know how in the world I had learned about Dewa Sanzan at all.


We took a succession of tiny trains from Ginzan Onsen to Tsuruoka (the closest big town to the Dewa mountains), switching at tiny stations that lacked, to my shock, Suica card machines, and waiting hours for the next train to arrive.  We rumbled past endless green rice paddies and distant mountain silhouettes under bright blue skies. And our foreignness attracted quite a few stares. It was true inaka life in every sense of the word. And it was beautiful.


After finally dropping off our bags at our hotel, we caught the first bus out of Tsuruoka and on to Mt. Haguro, the first of the three mountains, the mountain of Birth. Mt. Haguro is the lowest (414m) and easiest of the three mountains, and possibly the most famous just because everyone has climbed it.


This ancient wooden pagoda is the highlight of Mt. Haguro. It was built in 937 without any nails holding it together, and has stood there ever since. It’s actually quite a sight to behold.

Aside from the pagoda, Mt. Haguro is also famous for its 2,446 stone steps that lead up to its summit. We climbed the mountain on a sticky, muggy, sweltering August afternoon, and we all were drenched in sweat by the time we arrived at the summit. Unfortunately, there isn’t much of a view from the top… Mt. Haguro is almost completely forested, although the tall cedars do keep the trail nice and shady while you are hiking!


Originally, our plan was to spend the whole next day hiking up Mt. Gassan and down Mt. Yudono (the two mountains I was really looking forward to)… but unfortunately, the weather didn’t cooperate. We woke up and it was bucketing rain. We checked the weather and there were thunderstorms predicted to hover over Dewa Sanzan all day. A grim look out our hotel window confirmed that the weather apps had finally gotten it right for a change… dark clouds rolled over the far away mountains.


So, to my disappointment, our plans changed. No Mt. Gassan or Mt. Yudono for me. Perhaps I wasn’t quite ready for the mountains of Death and Rebirth. Instead, scrambling for a plan, we headed for the slightly less cloudy shoreline, to wander around Atsumi Onsen.


It wasn’t the active day I had intended it to be, but it was peaceful. We strolled along the Sea of Japan for a little while before walking along the river to the main town. Atsumi Onsen is a strange mixture of run-down and lived-in. It’s a quiet place, snuggled in the mountains, dotted with towering, half-empty ryokan, cheerful ice cream cafes, and small public foot baths.


We stumbled across some hidden little places during our day in Atsumi Onsen, before heading back for our final night in Tsuruoka (we decided to forgo visiting the self-mummified monks, but they are in the area if you are interested).

All plans hit snags, and the weather was a major one in Part II of our Tohoku Adventure, but hopefully someday in the not-so-distant future, I’ll be back to climb Mt. Gassan and Mt. Yudono.


2 thoughts on “Travelling in Tohoku Part 2: Dewa Sanzan, Yamagata

    • karen.m says:

      Thank you so much Aunt Ellen!! We had a really lovely time, and I was so happy to see my parents! Thank you so much for reading, and I can’t wait to see you for Christmas this year! I hope everything is going well back in CT?!


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